A Merman in Pohnpei: June 2015

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

50: The Groundbreaking

This morning, a classic CSP thing happened. I’m sitting at my desk, doing work, then the director comes by and is like “Julius, do you want to join us for a groundbreaking ceremony for a sea wall?” and I’m like “sure, when are we leaving?” – “Now.” Yay to spontaneity! It was cool though, here’s a view of the current sea wall the school has.

The groundbreaking! Kids were cheering, rain was pouring, people struggled to dig the symbolic shovels even an inch into the earth - I was happy!

This is the end of the current sea wall – the project will extend it by another 100 feet to also protect the main school building.

*Note on sea walls, just cause I can’t help myself: they only work to protect key features of the shoreline (from climate change leading to sea level rise leading to erosion and flooding), not the shoreline in general. There doesn’t exist a method to protect against sea level rise – beach nourishment, sea walls, mangrove replanting etc. only works to stall the inevitable.

In other news, there are currently 3 cyclones in the area, waiting to turn into tropical storms / typhoons. They’re not heading to Pohnpei though, but away from us (at the moment anyway). Pohnpei has historically been the “blessed” island, cause storms don’t usually hit the island, they are generated here and hit somewhere else O.O

Sunday, June 28, 2015

49: Hiking Six Waterfalls

So Six Waterfalls is one of the big sight seeing attractions, about a 45min car ride away, in Kiti Municipality. And I still hadn’t been, so I took the opportunity this weekend.

My coworker Relio invited me, cause he’s been to all kinds of places on the island with CSP’s terrestrial team, doing species inventory. Little did I know that he is actually from a special family that has special permission to go anywhere on the island without permission (which is a big deal). He also told me about the two ladies, kind of the local deities that protect/punish hikers. Yes, in my mind they are lesbian lovers (it’s interesting how lots of local legends begin with “once there were two mothers/brothers/ladies”). Anyways, he said I should come to a reception on Saturday, cause he was going to take a bunch of US military people on the hike on Sunday. So Saturday I went to the Deputy Ambassador’s house and talked a lot with the US ambassador (high level!) over beer/rum (she asked for rum cause of her soar throat. DEAD.)

And Sunday 7am we drove down to do the hike, cause the military gang had to be back by 1pm to teach a class.

Let me be clear. I did a 4-5h hike through the jungle, wading through waist deep rivers and slippery rocks and climbing slopes on all fours. At literally a military pace. Who were in a hurry. We only made it to 4 out of the 6 waterfalls. Yes I was able to keep up the pace, and yes my legs today are reminding me I did civilian service, not boot camp. It was amazing! Observe, waterfall #1.

Waterfall #2, and also shirtless military guy for scale (coast guard btw). FYI, their commanding officer was Sarah, who is actually married to a German guy and learned German through Rosetta Stone.

Waterfall #3. Did I mention we did this hike at like 100% humidity? I came prepared with my sweat-hankie though. Victorydance.

Waterfall #4. Yes, it started to rain half way through the hike. So hard it was impossible to drops from hitting the lens of my (underwater) camera.

This is what wild (local) ginger looks like. Beautiful! We also collected some ivory nuts (looks like a really pretty pinecone – no relation to ivory except that they use it for carving).

POHNPEI TIAHK (POHNPEI CULTURE)

30 Rice: The rice shortage on the island right now (bad weather = no cargo ship) has led to many rice-conversations. Apparently rice is more important for Pohnpeians than bread is for Germans, perhaps even more important than meat. No, that has not historically been the case, and no, it does not grow here.
29 Driving: Pohnpeians drive so well! Appropriately slow (read: pot holes), always use their turn signals, yield to pedestrians, etc.
28 Rain: I have never experienced rain like this. The rain (and subsequent waterfall-like stream that formed next to our hose) was so loud last night and today, I could not hear my alarm in the morning, nor the sizzling of the pan that signals Julius-get-your-ass-out-of-bed-it’s-breakfast time. And our roof isn’t tin, it’s concrete. Still. Raindrops on banana leaves, people, it’s SO soothing.
27 Buddhism: Somehow with my host dad’s accent, this word sounds exactly like “pollution.” That was a tiny bit confusing, in addition to the fact that it turns out he actually meant Muslims, not Buddhists, but that’s another story.
26 Suicide Rate: I just learned yesterday from Tony that FSM, and Chuuk state in particular has had an astronomically high suicide rate since the 70s. To put it in perspective, Japan’s suicide rate is 20-30 per 100,000 (depending on what statistic). The country FSM is 27, Chuuk state (neighboring Pohnpei state) is 40, and Chuuk males 15-25 years old is 250 per 100,000 (and there are only about 50,000 people living in Chuuk).
25 Mortlockese Vowels: Lots of them actually sound like the German ö, ä, ü – score!
24 Pohnpeian Alphabet: Has 16 letters and four digraphs in the following order: a, e, i, o, u, oa, k, l, m, mw, n, ng, p, pw, r, s, t, d, w. H is only used to make vowels long, g is only used in combination (ng), and t is actually pronounced like the english “ch”
23 Sounds that do not exist in Pohnpeian: F, J (as in German), H, V, B, T.
22 Voice Level: almost everyone usually talks with low voices. However, exceptions include: when my host family talks to Jayheart, my host sister Tarla most of the time, and telecommunication. That means yelling to your neighbors, either straight from your porch of out of your car as you pass by. That doesn’t always work flawlessly, so often Pahpa responds with a loud “AAAAAA?” which cracks me up.
21 Mold: don’t use something for about a week, and mold will start to grow on it (bags, clothes, books). Lesson learned.
20 Arwen: Pronunciation Fun Part II – So for the longest time I thought his name was Arwen (pronounced elvish like Elrond says it), but now I’m pretty sure it’s Marwin. I proceeded to have a dream about Arwen killing the Mouth of Sauron in a never-seen-before extended scene. I wish. Eowyn was also in my dream. *sigh*
19 Moisturizer: Why did I bring it? Perhaps the most unnecessary thing in my suitcase followed by my old flip phone that only takes AT&T sim cards (I forgot about that).
18 Power Outage: happens a lot, probably ever 4-5 days or so. Our CSP wifi router has a backup battery though. Score.
17 Donuts: Pohnpeian pronunciation: donas. Often without any sugar/glazing, so it’s just a little sweet, but freshly made very delicious.
16 Sashimi: pronounced more like sesame here. I’m gathering they call everything raw sashimi. When I asked a lady at the market if these were cooking bananas or good for eating just like that, she said “yeah, you can eat these sashimi.” I love it.
15 Spam: (@ my German friends: it’s a type of processed canned meat). I saw Spam pretending to be a piece of nigiri sushi at the market yesterday. Take a rectangular chunk of rice, put Spam on it, wrap a seaweed leaf around it. Voila.
14 hairdos: especially for men, they’re extremely creative! Lots of interesting patterns shaved/buzzed on the backs of peoples heads, or long but thin braided strands of hair (pretty much exactly like a jedi padawan), also dying it blonde…
13 Taro: if seasoned well, absolutely delicious! Cleaning it off your hands however, is about as difficult as removing rye sourdough when I make bread.
12 Spitting and driving: people open their car doors mid-drive to spit bettle nut.
11 Gender: Kesdy says men rule and women make the decisions. I talked to two very influential Pohnpeian women at a workshop today and had built up enough of a relationship to gently ask some gender questions, and as expected, gender politics are much more nuanced than just patriarchy. That being said, I am clearly benefiting from male privilege here.
10 Spitting: Everyone does it, all the time. Spiting out bettle nut juice, or after taking a sip of sakau, or just because. And they’re really good/precise at it. I am not, so I’m not going to try.
09 Mosquitoes: There are a lot fewer of them then I’d expect. That being said, a Mosquito SWAT team somehow found its way into my room last night. Through the closed window? Sneaky little hobbitses, but I’ll get you my pretties, and your little dogs, too.
08 Island Time: Nobody is punctual, but everyone still manages to be on time. Example: Kesdy said he’d pick me up between 11 and 12. He picked me up at 4. Willy said we’d come at just the right time.
07 U: The municipality with the shortest name in the world. Apparently Willy’s father shortened it from Uh so it would get into the Guinness Book of World Records. Success.
06 Mirrors: Pahpa does not like mirrors, so there are no mirrors in the house (also not the office). Trimming my beard? Postponed indefinitely.
05 Driving on the Right Side: Almost all of the cars are Japanese/for the Japanese market, so the steering wheel is on the right hand side. But they drive on the right side of the road. That should be weird, but considering everything that’s different here, I barely notice it.
04 Seat Belts: Kesdy says it’s not appropriate to wear seat belts on the island.
03 Nahs: The name for the community gathering house (though more of a roof with very open walls). Mother’s Day celebration, sakau ceremony, community meetings, everything takes place in a nahs. Lots of houses have them on their property, or they’re next to stores, attached to sakau bars etc.
02 Meninrahn: the only poisonous animal on Pohnpei. Yay! It’s a very large centipede with a very nasty stinging bite O.O not lethal though, according to my co-worker Kesdy.
01 Bettlenut: Most of my coworkers chew it with lime powder (lime as in limestone) – think chewing tobacco, except it looks like an acorn and grows on a palm tree. Selimo says his dentist hates him.